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Bristol 406

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Bristol 406 - information: Bristol 406 is a very good car, that was released by "Bristol" company. We collected the best 7 photos of Bristol 406 on this page.

Brand Name Bristol
Model Bristol 406
Number of views 60771 views
Model's Rate 6.2 out of 10
Number of images 7 images
Interesting News
  • This is Yamaha S10000R.

    YAMAHA ALWAYS SAID there would be larger MTmodels, and that the crossplane-crank inline-four engine fromthe YZF-R1 could be used. Given theMT-07’s twin andMT-09’s triple are ‘crossplane concept’ and called the CP2 andCP3, it would kindamake sense to have an actual crossplanemotor in the range. So here’s the newMT-10. This isn’t just the engine froman R1. Unlike its purposebuilt siblings, and despite promising to be ‘enjoyed on any road, any time and at any speed’, theMT-10 is heavily based on themachine that donates its gravelly, snarling engine. Frame, forks, shock and brakes are nicked fromthe sportsbike (or, to be precise, the slightly lower-spec R1-S that they get in the USA). This is Yamaha’s S1000R. Obviously there are changes. The 998cc engine has different pistons, crank, intake, exhaust and injection for bottom-end balls and midrange might, and revised gearing. Like other MTs there are three ridingmodes, but the MT-10 also has cruise control and threelevel traction. A quickshifter will be optional. The frame has ‘optimised strength/rigidity balance’, with a steel subframe andmodified settings for the suspension, and a stubby 1400mmwheelbase - just 20mm longer than the trim newMT-03. Radial calipers have ABS, and the Bridgestone tyres are specially developed for the bike. You’ll get 17 litres in the tank and there’s a 12v power socket. Colours? Blue, black, or the ‘Night Fluro’ grey with high-vis wheels that’s available across theMT range. Yamaha have trodden this path before. The now-defunct FZ1was based on an R1, but its attitude and revvy delivery made it hard work against rival nakeds of the day. Times change however, and now we’re in the age of the supernaked theMT could be just the job. Yamaha haven’t decided howmuch power or weight to claim, or howmuch it’ll cost. But they do assure us that the new MT-10 will be here in May.
  • MT-10.

    Probably the most eye-catching and exciting motorcycle at EICMA 2015, the sharp and edgy MT-10 is actually a naked version of Yamaha’s awesome YZF R1. It is powered by a reworked 998-cc in-line four with the crossplane crankshaft. Output figures remain shrouded in mystery, unfortunately. The MT-10, like a host of other motorcycles across manufacturers, gets the benefit of ride-by-wire, which is further shored up with selectable power modes, traction control and so on. However, the inertial measurement units of the range-topping R1 will not be seen in the electronics package of the MT-10. Although the bike doesn’t look like it’s headed for India anytime soon, it will surely catch a whole lot of eyeballs and swing them Yamaha’s way if the Indian arm of the MotoGP world championship winning manufacturer do decide to take the bold step.
  • BIG BIKE VS. SMALL BIKE.

    We see it quite often at the racetrack, especially in club races where classes are mixed: Rider on small bike passes rider on big bike in seemingly every corner, only to be passed back right away on the next straight. Even if the power difference is not that great between the two bikes, the contrast between corner speed and straightaway speed of the two bikes becomes magnified as each bike is ridden to maximize its advantages. The reality of the situation is that the outright maximum cornering speed between any two bikes is not that significantly different, provided both are on similar tires. If the tires are similar, both bikes should be capable of the same lateral acceleration (limited by the friction coefficient of the tires) and corner speed. Why do we see such a contrast in how the bikes are ridden? On an underpowered bike, the quickest way around the track is to maximize corner speed, in turn getting onto each straight with as much speed as possible. This is accomplished by completing the corner with as large an arc as possible, which converts lateral acceleration into maximum corner speed. For a typical single-radius corner, this means entering as wide as possible to maximize entry speed, turning in to the apex with little trail- braking, and keeping the bike at maximum lean with a constant radius until the very exit of the corner. In contrast, the quickest lap times on a more powerful bike are usually found by maximizing acceleration onto each straight and taking advantage of that power; this is achieved by sacrificing some corner speed to pick the bike up and apply the throttle earlier at the exit. For that same single-radius corner, this means a tighter entry, more trail-braking to a slightly later apex, with a tighter arc and less corner speed to get the bike up off the side of the tire as quickly as possible. As we found out in our displacement test last year where we compared the Yamaha YZF-R6, Suzuki GSX-R750, and Kawasaki ZX-10R, it’s not so much that the smaller bikes have a handling advantage over the bigger bikes but rather it’s how each bike is ridden to play to its strength or weakness in the power department. Using data from our AiM Solo GPS lap timer, we could see differences in line and cornering speeds between the three bikes, just as you would expect given the horsepower of each. While a few horsepower here or there might not seem like it should impact line choice signifi- cantly, in practice even a small difference can significantly change how a particular corner or series of corners is negotiated. And the contrast between a lightweight bike and a literbike can be astonishing: We’ve encountered certain corners where the entry line is several feet different on an SV650 than it is on a 1000, for an example. Finding the optimum line to match the power of your bike does require some experimentation. The wide radius and high corner speed that less powerful bikes require typically brings with it a higher risk of a high-side crash in the middle of the corner just as the throttle is opened, and the safer option is to start with the tighter entry and lower corner speed of the big-bike line and work from there, adding more corner speed and a wider entry with practice. If you are looking at sector times on data, don’t forget to factor in any time gained or lost on the succeeding straight, which may or may not offset time saved in the corner itself. Given the contrast in lines between different bikes, the key point to remember is that the optimum line for your bike may be very different from the bike in front of you, and it’s quite often a mistake to blindly follow another rider at the track. Even if you are riding the same model of bike, the power difference may be enough that you can take advantage of a different line to be quicker, and that line may work to a further advantage when it comes time to make a pass. When you ride at the track, what bike you are on will at least in part determine what lines you should be taking, and you should try different options with that in mind. And if you change bikes and move to a more or less powerful machine- or even make modifications to the same bike for more power-know that the lines you had been using for years might need to be altered appropriately.
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